Alessandro & Gian Natale Fantino Vino Rosso Laboro Disobedient 2016
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From their cellar in the heart of historic Monforte d’Alba, brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino exemplify low-intervention winemaking at its best, with an old-school vibe that resonates through each of their classic cuvées. The Laboro is a declassified Barolo Riserva aged in neutral old botti; Gian Natale defines it as “so typically Barolo that it’s not even a Barolo.” Deep and brawny, it is loaded with dark fruit and balsamic notes of incense, tea, and spice, finishing with a thick, chewy tannin. “This is old-fashioned Nebbiolo, the way we like it!” Gianni exclaims. This brooding beast epitomizes great Barolo from Monforte.
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The 2016 Laboro Disobedient is fabulous. Tasting it makes me feel like I am in the cellar in Monforte. Sweet floral and spice notes open first, followed by a burst of sweet red berry and plum fruit. Deep and yet light on its feet, the 2016 is wonderfully deep and so expressive. I loved it.
Two brothers, Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino, run this family estate in Monforte d’Alba. Alessandro managed the vineyards and served as the enologist at Cantina Bartolo Mascarello for 20 years, from 1978 to 1997. The brothers farm eight hectares in the heart of the historic Bussia cru, one of Barolo’s most famous areas for producing wines of great longevity and finesse. The Fantino holdings are concentrated exclusively in the “Dardi” section of Bussia. The brothers also produce a Barbera d’Alba from these ancient vines in Dardi, and a “Rosso dei Dardi” from younger vine Nebbiolo. They are also specialists with several traditional Piemontese wines that are mostly disappearing: Nebbiolo Passito and Barolo Chinato.
Attracting the most glory, prestige and fame to the Piedmont region, Nebbiolo in all of its expressions—Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Ghemme and Gattinara—creates a complex wine, truly unique for its delicate qualities combined with strength and a great potential to improve over time.
But Nebbiolo isn’t all there is to red wine from Piedmont! Barbera is the most planted variety and historically most popular as a dependable, food-friendly, everyday wine.
Beyond these two, a surprising number of red varieties call Piedmont their home. Worth a try include Dolcetto for its bold concentration and aromas of spice cake. Other grapes to investigate include Freisa, Croatina, Brachetto, Grignolino and Pelaverga.