Chateau de Saint Cosme Condrieu 2020
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Wine Spectator
Alluring, with creamed yellow apple, mirabelle plum and white peach flavors carried by a caressing hint of elderflower and lemon curd through the finish, where a late flash of white ginger peeks in.
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Wine Enthusiast
White-floral aromas rest atop yellow peaches, with hints of fresh jackfruit and pulverized stone. The rich palate is balanced with honeysuckle, ripe lemon, melon and a pithy saline finish. Elegant restraint allows for this wine to be approachable for immediate enjoyment.
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Jeb Dunnuck
I’m always able to taste Louis’s Northern Rhône release as well. His 2020 Condrieu is medium to full-bodied, pure, and balanced, with that unique Condrieu ability to blend richness and freshness. Some classic tangerine, white flowers, and honeysuckle notes define the nose, and it’s beautifully done. Drink it over the coming 4-6 years.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Barruol does a lovely job with Condrieu, which he sources from Malleval, what he calls "the cold corner of Condrieu." His 2020 Condrieu features flowery, blossom-like aromas, plus subtle pear and spice shadings. It's only medium-bodied, but provides hints of Viognier's opulence, with a long, silky-textured finish that barely hints at bitterness.
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Chateau de Saint Cosme is the leading estate of Gigondas and produces the appellation’s benchmark wines. Wine has been produced on the site of Saint Cosme since Roman times, evident by the ancient Gallo-Roman vats carved into the limestone below the chateau. The property has been in the hands of Louis Barruol’s family since 1570. Henri and Claude Barruol took over in 1957 and gradually moved Saint Cosme away from the bulk wine business. Henri was one of the first in the region to work organically beginning in the 1970s. Louis Barruol took over from his father in 1992, making a dramatic shift to quality, adding a négociant arm to the business in 1997, and converting to biodynamics in 2010.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.