Domaine Meo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2019
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Jasper
Morris
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Decanter
Located near the château, Méo's holding in the Clos de Vougeot dates to Etienne Camuzet’s purchase in 1920 and the average vine age is 60 years. These grapes are blended with a parcel in Grand Maupertuis to produce what must surely be among the most majestic wines of the Clos de Vougeot, with a strikingly spicy black fruit, massive concentration and a brooding, tannic structure that leads to an immense finish.
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Wine Spectator
Saturated cherry, plum and spice flavors are the highlights of this juicy red, which combines elegance and power. Firms up nicely, yet the fruit remains persistent, right through the long aftertaste. A chalky feel lingers, along with sandalwood and woodsy notes.
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Jasper Morris
Medium purple lighter rim, soft and very ripe raspberry/strawberry fruit. The Clos Vougeot was picked early but possibly it was already at the limit of ripeness. Lower acidity and showing its wood more.
Barrel Sample: 91-94
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Méo-Camuzet is one of the most celebrated domaines of the Côte d’Or, located in the heart of prestigious Vosne-Romanée. The domaine boasts fourteen hectares of land in some of the most spectacular appellations and crus of Burgundy. Méo-Camuzet bottles four astounding grands crus, ten premier crus, several village wines, one Bourgogne Rouge, and only one white. Vigneron Jean-Nicolas Méo aims for balance and purity of fruit, which he accomplishes with terrific success. Though delicate and fine, even in their youth, the paradoxical concentration and intensity of these wines make them ideal for long cellar aging.
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
Containing the largest Grand Cru in all of the Côte d’Or, Vougeot, the village, takes its name from the small stream flowing through it, called Vouge. Over three quarters of the village retains Grand Cru status, and a single vineyard at that: Clos de Vougeot (or simply, Clos Vougeot). Its mass—over 50 ha—retains the single name chiefly for historic reasons.
But today, Clos de Vougeot contains over 80 owners and shows significant soil and slope variations within its boundaries. The top, bordering Musigny and Grands Echezeaux, is calcareous and gravelly on oolitic limestone and exhibits wonderful drainage. The middle sections are limestone, gravel and clay with less of a slope. The lower part has little slant and is mostly made of clay. Historically the diverse parcels were blended but today the abundance of owners means that everyone has his own style. Exploring and understanding them is part of the allure of Clos de Vougeot.
In general a fine Clos de Vougeot when young will be dense and dark but juicy, with a pronounced austerity, and needs a good ten years to bring it to its full potential.