Mills Reef Elspeth Chardonnay 2014
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Elspeth Chardonnay is redolent of honeyed peaches, crumbled nuts, clotted cream, cedar and brioche with a touch of struck match. Medium bodied and beautifully crafted with tons of stone fruit and nut flavors matched by judicious use of oak, it has a creamy texture and wonderful length.
Rating: 91+
The Preston family established Mills Reef Winery in 1989. Adding commitment and dedication to excellence, MillsReef has established itself as one of New Zealand's premium wine brands with a particular reputation for outstanding Bordeaux varietal reds and Syrah from the renowned Gimblett Gravels District in Hawkes Bay. Located at 143 Moffat Road, Bethlehem, Tauranga, the Art Deco style architecture is a reflection on Hawkes Bay, and specifically Napier - the Art Deco capital of the world.
Mills Reef Winery has frequently been acclaimed as one of the most stylish and attractive wineries in New Zealand. Set on 20 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, the complex boasts full wine-making and bottling facilities, two underground barrel cellars, an aged wine cellar and an enviable reputation as one of New Zealand's leading wine producers.
Although New Zealand is known primarily as a cool climate winemaking country, there are exclusive regions, one of which is Hawkes Bay, that lend themselves to a warmer style of winemaking. The Gimblett Gravels appellation is a sub-region of Hawkes Bay, and is a gem in the NZ winegrowing landscape, with its particular stony soils that enable winemakers to produce superb Bordeaux style wines, hence our focus.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
An eclectic region on the east coast of the North Island, Hawkes Bay extends from wide, fertile, coastal plains, inland, to the coast range, whose peaks reach as high as 5,300 feet. While the flatter areas were historically more popular because they are easier to cultivate, their alluvial soils can be too fertile for vines. In the late 20th century, the drive for quality led growers to the hills where soils are free-draining, limestone-rich and more suited to producing high quality wines.
Over the passing of time, the old Ngaruroro River laid down deep, gravelly beds, which were subsequently exposed after a huge flood in the 1860’s. In the 1980s growers identified this stretch, which continues for approximately 800 ha, and named it the Gimblett Gravels. The zone has proven to be ideal for the production of excellent red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
Today the area takes well-earned recognition for its Bordeaux blends and other reds. Expressive of intense stewed red and black berry with gentle herbaceous characters, Gimblett Gravels wines are suggestive of their cool climate origin, and on par with other top-notch Bordeaux blends around the globe.
Chardonnay is the top white grape in Hawkes Bay, making elegant wines, strong in stone fruit character. Sauvignon blanc comes in close behind, notable for its tropical, fruit forward qualities.