Santo Assyrtiko Santorini 2017
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This vintage marked the 70th anniversary of this cooperative winery. By picking early and relying on fruit from high-altitude vineyards, winemaker Nikos Varvarigos worked the warmth of the vintage into a powerful, impressive Santorini. It’s nearly tropically ripe, juicy peach and apricot flavors hinting at mango, even as the island’s stony character comes through. It ends firm and clean, leaving behind the scent of sea air.
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A crisp white variety full of zippy acidity, Assyrtiko comes from the volcanic Greek island of Santorini but is grown increasingly wide throughout the country today. Assyrtiko’s popularity isn’t hard to explain: it retains its acid and mineral profile in a hot climate, stands alone or blends well with other grapes and can also withstand some age. Somm Secret—On the fairly barren, windswept Mediterranean island of Santorini, Assyrtiko vines must be cultivated in low baskets, pinned to the ground. The shape serves to preserve moisture and protect the growing grapes in its interior.